Friday, March 28, 2014

Holidays in Pleebo

As we were approaching the Christmas/New Year’s season, Sarah and I were both curious as to what celebrations would look like here in Maryland County.  Needless to say, celebrating these two holidays in Liberia was nothing like celebrating back in the States.


Christmas arrived, and to be honest, it was just another day in our life.  The market was still open, though for only half the day, and everyone still had work to do.  The market was much livelier leading up to Christmas, but that is to be expected.  Giving gifts on Christmas is not really a thing here.  Though there were a lot more dolls and stuffed animals to be found in our market, there was no Christmas trees, garland, or bows to decorate with.


Instead, Christmas turned out to be a day where everyone donned new clothes, did their hair in a new way (whether that be a different plait style or a new weave), and “bluffed” around town.  Regina, our neighbor, knew that we were celebrating Christmas, and for “our day” she cooked us an entire duck with soup.  It was so generous of her, and I’m grateful for her friendship.  (Regina is Muslim and so Christmas was just another day for her.)  Evelyn’s family also brought us over cabbage soup as a Christmas gift.


To reciprocate the wonderful gifts we have received from our neighbors over the prior few months, we had bought pineapples for every family.  Pineapples were currently in season, and though they were plenty, they were also more expensive than other fruit available at the time.  It was a gift that was well received and it was a nice way to share the Christmas spirit with everyone. 


New Years arrived, and with it Sarah travelled to Monrovia for a meeting; subsequently, that left me here to defend the fort by myself for five days.  I was a little apprehensive about it, but looking back, I’m not sure why I was so worried.  The neighbors quickly adopted me as a part of their family, and the days passed by as fast as they normally do.  While it was interesting to experience Pleebo by myself, I was so happy for Sarah to return.  Lighting a coal pot and then cooking rice for just one person is the loneliest thing I have done since arriving in Liberia.  I now understand why Liberian families are so large… :)


Monday, November 25, 2013

Reflections

If you had told me one year ago that…

1.      …I would return to West Africa…
2.      …I would feel wasteful using more than six scoops of water in a bucket bath…
3.      …I would be teaching high school physics and chemistry…
4.      …I would celebrate over the day we found a (sub-par) $10 bottle of wine…
5.      …I would argue with a shopkeeper over buying a big bag of coal for more than $4
      US…
6.      …I would light a coal pot with a piece of plastic and one match in ten minutes…
7.      …I would eat half of a 25-kilogram bag of rice in three months…
8.      …I would be so excited to see real tomatoes or potatoes…
9.      …I would lead an almost exclusively vegetarian diet…
10.  …on the days we did find chicken in the market, we’d take it home and cook it, never 
          minding the fact it was once frozen and is now warm from the heat…
11.  …I would be “cold” on nights when it hits 75 F or so…
12.  …one of my best friends would be a girl from Ohio with a completely different 
         upbringing, musical taste, and interests than me…
13.  …we would laugh over the time we literally scooped the poop out of our toilet…
14.  …I could brag I helped someone kill a mouse with a shoe…
15.  …I would kill a cockroach I found in my room without screaming or freaking out…
16.  …I would survive without Diet Coke…
17.  …I would look forward to days we ate burnt garlic bread and spaghetti with okra…
18.  …I would get so excited over tuna salad sandwiches for lunch…
19.  …I would walk to school in the pouring rain to ensure my students had some classes
         on a rainy day…
20.  …I would learn to embrace my crazy mefloquine dreams…
21.  …I would regularly wake up at 5:30 or 6:00 am without an alarm clock…
22.  …I would grow to love my site so much that I dreaded coming to training…
23. ...I wouldn't be able to handle thinking about leaving the students I have already
          grown so close to...


…I would have called you crazy.  Instead, here I am.  It’s still hard for me to believe that I’m a Peace Corps Volunteer in one of the most beautiful countries on this planet.  Mama Liberia has embraced me with open arms, and I am so grateful for the opportunity that this has provided me.  

Wheelbarrows – Versatile & Convenient

Sally, Liberia would be a haven for you.  Every time I remember digging through the bins at the Goodwill outlet in Hernando, I then flash-forward to myself digging through a wheelbarrow for whatever it is I am buying that day. 

For those of you who are not my sister, here’s an update.  Anything that you want to buy in the market that is not tomato paste, onions, sugar, rice, or beans is found in a wheelbarrow.  In fact, I’m guessing there are more wheelbarrows per capita here than in the United States.  Everyone uses one, whether it is for hauling their goods to the market to sell, pushing one around selling pepper/peanuts/palm oil/footballs and mirrors around town, hauling jugs of water from the well to their house, or filling it full of dirt and hauling it to a construction site, wheelbarrows are a normal site in Liberia.

While in Monrovia, we made sure to check out Waterside Market, the biggest market in the capital city.  There, we were crazy people, digging through wheelbarrows as fast as we could – buying t-shirts, tank tops, skirts, pants, whatever we could find, really.  The sellers are excited to sell their goods, obviously, and they will do all they can to help you out.  If they see you digging through, they will start showing you items that are your size or close to it.  If you tell them you need long skirts for teaching, they will dig through the pile of skirts, showing you all the long ones they have. At the end of the day, these guys and gals know what they have to do to close a deal. 

Emmanuel, a student in 10B, with his wheelbarrow.


I’m grateful for all the wheelbarrow sellers in town.  Some of our favorites in Pleebo include the guy we buy our clothes-washing soap from (all we do is walk up to his barrow and he gets two bars of soap, in a bag for us, ready to go), the boys who sell oranges for cheap out of a wheelbarrow, and the guys who sell hangers (which I need more of, now that I’m going to be getting more things made of lappa).  All in all, it makes shopping fun.  It’s portable, convenient, and easily covered when it rains – what else could be better in the world of markets?

Thank goodness for hard drives…

While Sarah and I love Pleebo, we also love to escape a little by watching something terribly mindless.  This has translated into a lot of things as of late, some of which I’d like to share with you below.  During our time at site, we have watched the following:

1.      Seasons 1-3 of Sex and the City
2.      All of the Friends series
3.      Seasons 1-3 of Workaholics
4.      The Human Planet series, produced by BBC
5.      The Planet Earth series, produced by BBC
6.      Pretty Woman
7.      Erin Brokovich
8.      The Wedding Singer
9.      50 First Dates
10.  Fight Club
11.  Reservoir Dogs
12.  The Butterfly Effect
13.  Mr. & Mrs. Smith
14.  The Jungle Book
15.  The Hunchback of Notre Dame
16.  Tarzan
17.  He’s Just Not That Into You
18.  Definitely Maybe
19.  Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
20.  Lord of the Rings – Fellowship of the Ring [extended edition]
21.  Lord of the Rings – The Two Towers [extended edition]
22.  Lord of the Rings – The Return of the King [extended edition] (to be watched very soon)
23.  Date Night
24.  Baby Mama
25.  Flubber
26.  Space Jam
27.  The Family Stone
28.  The Break Up
29.  Sleepless in Seattle
30.  An Affair to Remember
31.  When Harry Met Sally
32.  One Day
33.  P.S. I Love You
34.  The Big Lebowski
35.  Religulous

This list is non-exhaustive, of course, as we’ve had many nights when I know we watched something ridiculous and I just can’t think of it.  Needless to say, I still have 3 TB of movies to watch, so if anyone has any ideas of good movies for us to watch, please let me know!  The hard drive is full of older stuff, so don’t be afraid to go back a ways :) 


As always, thanks for your advice!

Musings on the first marking period

With the first marking period come and gone, and the second one almost completed, I find myself marveling at the fact that I have successfully taught over 250 students for over two months.  If you had told me one year ago that I would be a high school science teacher in Liberia, I would have laughed at you.  And instead, here I am!

Though we have finished the first marking period, my work is far from over.  Many of my students failed that first marking period, and many of them are looking to be on their way to failing the second.  In my 11A Physics class, I passed only 7 out of 64 students.  This was discouraging, but I know it’s because they do not try.  Many of them have stepped up their game this marking period, after realizing the level of work that I expect, and they are on track to pass my class.  Between all of the examples, homework problems, quizzes, and review for the final exam, there is no reason anyone should be failing my class. 

Part of the problem, I think, comes from the fact that their other classes are very different from the way that we run our classes.  Sarah and I don’t put up with any crap from our students; if you make a fool of yourself, we will call you out on it.  If you are being rude or disrespectful, we are not afraid to move you to the front of the classroom or to send you out of the classroom altogether.  Another favorite of ours has been to lecture our students after class – either in the classroom or in the hallway, where everyone can watch and get the hint that we are serious about providing them with a quality education. 


My tenth graders are showing the most progress this marking period, and I could not be happier about that.  My 10C and 10D classes are my favorite two classes, and they are picking up our new Physics material very very well.  Teaching them every day is enjoyable to me, and on the days that I don’t want to go to school, thinking about missing their class makes me want to go.  My brightest students are in those two classes, and I am excited to see what we can accomplish by next summer.  Who knows – maybe I am teaching a future president of Liberia?  One can never know…  All I know is that it is my duty to provide them with the best educational experience I can find within myself.  Here’s to the next two years. 

11A  
The ladies of 10C 
The ladies of 10D 
Some of the guys from 10D 
The trouble makers of 10D.

We are still bizarre…three months in.

Sarah and I are the only two white women living in Pleebo, and though we have been there for three months, we are still shiny new toys to many of the children here.  That being said, walking by our house every day on the way to school is a must for any child in the near and not-so-near area.  While this is fine, it is also obnoxious.  They will walk by our neighbor’s homes, and then once they reach near ours, they start screaming hello at us.  You may think I am exaggerating, but that could be further from the truth – they are quite literally screaming at us.

We have become very good at ignoring them, and this seems to work most of the time.  Some still do not get the point, though, so we have to go through our spiel with them.  “Move from here” or “We are not your picture show” have become sayings that our neighbors hear from us plenty.  Some children, or pekings as they are called locally, do not get the hint, and we have to resort to “I will flog you-o!” or something equally as threatening for them to move.  Sometimes, we’ll even act as if we’re going to come after them off the porch before they move. 

Some children think that they can just walk circles around our house and we will not notice it.  That is the most amusing, simply because it is as if they think we are absolute idiots who do not notice them walk by, screaming hello, fifteen times in fifteen minutes!  For these times, our neighbors come to our rescue.

First of all, there is Regina’s husband.  He spends a lot of time on their front porch, which is very near our back porch.  I can only imagine his inner dialogue when these kids are around; before our arrival, his life was quiet and calm…now, it is noisy and full of kids screaming at the white women who live next door to him.  When he is finally tired of the situation, he will come off his porch and yell at them, asking them if they’re stupid or if they cannot hear.  Sarah and I just laugh when this happens, because, really, what else can we do?

One of my favorite memories, though, has to do with Robertson.  One day, these girls would not leave the corner of our house, continually spying around the corner and laughing at us.  Robertson was doing some carpentry work in his shop in front of their house, and I yelled over to him, “Robertson, the children are being foolish!”  Immediately, he dropped his tools and started running over to where they were.  “Move from here!” he shouted.  “I will tell your mother and she will beat you.  Leave the women alone!”  Shocked, Sarah and I again laughed about the situation.  I told him thank you, and he just shrugged it off.  It’s obvious he thinks the same thing – we have been here so long…  Why are they not used to us by now?


The entire situation just reminds me again and again of how we have the best neighbors in all of Liberia.  PCVs here, you can argue that sure, but we will win time and time again :) 

Sarah’s adventures with the tailor, Youssouf

One of the only ways that anyone gets clothing in Liberia is by buying lappa, or African fabric, and heading to your local tailor to get a wide variety of items made.  Though the used clothing market is booming here, plenty of people still wear traditional African clothes (or use the fabric to get something very contemporary made).  Sarah has jumped right into this trend in Pleebo and found herself a pretty awesome tailor.

Youssouf has a shop right on the main road near our house, and we pass by it every day, whether we are going to school or reaching to the market.  She has a good eye for lappa that works well with her style, and she is also really good at finding designs or styles that look great on her.  Since our arrival in Pleebo, she has had three dresses made, and all of them have been phenomenal. 

One dress was an exact replica of a dress that she brought with her from America (which her friend, Tressa, actually gave her from South Africa) and it seems to be the comfiest dress she owns.  Another was this great dress made with a very unique lappa that, again, looks great.  And finally, there is the shining gem of any dress ever made.  She found this beautiful blue lappa, which she intended to get made into a really full, long skirt.  Instead, after picking it up, she found it turned into a 80s prom dress.  Youssouf made the skirt, sure, but he also made a bright blue satin top to go with it.  On that, he added a very prim collar and a big black button.  Overall, the dress was just obnoxious, but like the trooper she is, she wore it confidently for a month or so.  Just recently, she took it back to him, however, and had him take off the top, leaving her with just a really great skirt :)


When I get back to site, it is my goal to get more things made.  Youssouf and I are going to become best friends, and I can’t wait to bring back some awesome things to wear in America.  Before, I was very conscious of what types of patterns or styles I wore.  Now, however, I could care less.  I’m going to rock my Liberian-wear in America, doing whatever it is I decide to do when I return.  It’s gonna be great.